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Fashion designs

Texpertise supports young designers

Zero-waste couture and upcycling of deadstock fabrics as a blueprint for the future of fashion?

25 Feb 2025

Lea Theres Lahr-Thiele and Clément Isel were honored with the exclusive Texpertise Awards in October 2024 at the Festival International de la Mode Dinan. As part of their prize, Lea showcased her innovative fashion at IMPACT and Neonyt Paris, while Clément will attend VIATT in Vietnam.

Reading time: 5 minutes

Watch: Lea Theres Lahr-Thiele and Clément Isel about their designs

The fashion industry, with its ever-changing trends and creative innovations, often faces criticism, particularly for its environmental impact. Zero-waste couture and the upcycling of deadstock fabrics are therefore paving new ways to create and redefine fashion.

For Lea and Clément, as for many visionary designers, the journey into fashion often begins in childhood – with a strong, playful passion for creative design. 

As these designers progressed in their careers, the marriage of passion and technique became pivotal. Gaining hands-on experience through apprenticeships in bridal and high fashion environments, they honed skills in pattern design and textile creation, always with a keen eye on technical aspects. This dedication to mastering every step of the creative process underlined their commitment to building pieces from scratch, ensuring each creation is both innovative and sustainable.

Reimagining materials: Zero waste and upcycling

One of the most pressing issues addressed is the problem of waste within the fashion industry. Embracing zero waste couture, designers explore upcycling and redesigning deadstock materials. By collecting leftover materials directly, the creators ensure a deeper understanding and control over their sources, effectively lifting these "unwanted" fabrics into a world of high fashion and couture.

”Deadstock washing”

Despite the noble ideals behind these sustainable practices, challenges remain. The industry faces the pervasive problem of "greenwashing," or more recently, "deadstock washing," where transparency about material origins is lacking. Designers are consequently compelled to personally oversee the sourcing process, ensuring the integrity of their collections. Producing innovative pieces with specific fabrics requires not only creativity but also a robust strategy for managing and minimizing waste through techniques such as laser cutting.

Outdoor wear designs by Clément Isel
Outdoor wear designs by Clément Isel
Zero-waste couture designs by Lea Theres Lahr-Thiele © Jasper Grätsch
Zero-waste couture designs by Lea Theres Lahr-Thiele © Jasper Grätsch

The supply chain shift

The focus must extend beyond individual steps to include the entire production chain, from initial material choice to final delivery. Creating partnerships with like-minded buyers and clients becomes essential, forging pathways for broader acceptance and integration of these sustainable practices within the textile industry.

Lea und Clément stand firm in their belief that passion is essential, driving them to overcome challenges and realize their creative visions. The pursuit of bringing outdoor gear into the haute couture arena illustrates this ethos, as designers merge technical fabrics with high fashion aesthetics.

Towards a sustainable industry future

The vision for the future is clear: Young designers advocate for working in an environment that creates value rather than merely consuming resources. There’s a concerted effort towards sourcing partners and investing in teams that can manage administrative burdens, allowing designers the freedom to innovate.

As we move towards this future, the message is clear: Follow your passion, let it fuel your creativity, and strive to craft a world where sustainable and beautifully crafted textiles are not just an aspiration, but a reality. Through such dedication, the vision of a truly sustainable fashion industry is getting much closer.

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