Waste is being turned into fashion, fashion is being turned into added value. New technologies are paving the way for sustainable innovations, such as revolutionary recycling methods in keeping with the slogan “Trash is the good news”. People’s emotional bond with the ocean plays a central role in the collections. High-tech fabrics made of recycled fishing nets are a nod to the ambivalent use of water as a resource. Even the colour schemes are contrasting. Sand, earthenware, clay – earthy tones are forming the basis of the autumn/winter collections. Mustard-yellow tones, dark mocha and rich Bordeaux are adding warm highlights while ink blue from the seabed is adding depth. Mindfulness without sacrifice – the sustainable fashion brands exhibiting at Neonyt during Berlin Fashion Week are showing just how innovative sustainable fashion is looking in the here and now.
Taking advantage of new technologies, protecting resources. Spanish brand Ecoalf is a pioneer when it comes to recycling and synonymous with modern athleisure. Sporty performance looks have long since grown out of the outdoor segment and well and truly arrived in the realm of urban street style. Casual quilted jackets, oversized knitwear and clean sneakers are key pieces of the collections by Ecoalf. Based on the motto “Upcycling the Oceans”, sneakers made of ocean waste reduce the wearer’s CO2 footprint with every step. The upper material of the shoes is made from plastic bottles, while the sole is made from a type of algae. Ecoalf has already developed over 300 fabrics from waste. And as if all that weren’t enough: the urban and activewear brand has made it its mission to become down-free by 2020 and is using vegan synthetic filling for its AW19/20 collection. A sustainable lifestyle using the latest high-tech materials – the future is within reach.
Reflection of our Time
Waste, polluted oceans, melting polar ice caps – the message behind Rhumaa’s new collection is a political one. The fact that a highly fashionable spin can be put on this is being proven by the Dutch label with modern silhouettes, luxurious fabrics and abstract prints. The latter are the result of a collaboration with South African artist Fernando Badiali, who photographed plastic waste on beaches and in harbours throughout the Rainbow Nation: “I spend so much time shooting South Africa’s beaches and harbour areas, but I often find myself standing in trash while shooting a beautiful scene. It’s a reflection of our time and people need to see what I see”, says Badiali. Curvy cuts are reminiscent of waves, while sand tones and ocean blue form the basis of the colour concept. A tribute to our oceans.
Cossac’s AW19/20 collection oscillates between yesterday and tomorrow, the past and the future. Designed in London and made in Europe, designer Agatka Kozak reimagines classic materials and patterns and puts them in a modern context. Vintage-inspired jacquards and recycled tweed meet on-trend check patterns and chunky knitwear made of organic yarns. Flowing micro-modal and woven Tencel fabrics round off the look, adding feminine shapeliness and modern sleekness. Black is back and being complemented by retro neutrals – from Smokey Grey to Cashew Cream down to Dusky Sage. For Cossac, timeless yet modern is not a contradiction in terms.
As filigree as a pencil stroke on paper. With her jewellery label Wild Fawn, Emma Barnes translates her passion for drawing into silver and gold. Sometimes she creates purist earrings from intertwined silver threads, while other times she lets fragile-looking rings hang from delicate chains. Always with an understated, fashionable and timeless style. For AW19/20, Barnes has drawn inspiration from jewellery from the days of Ancient Rome and experimented with new shapes and materials. Pearls shimmer on golden hoops; hammered rings evoke associations with Roman coins. The pieces of jewellery are lovingly made by hand in London, exclusively from recycled silver and Fairtrade gold.
Play on Tradition
Made in England – from the very first design to the finishing stitch. The history of British family-run company Peregrine dates back to the 18th century. These days the knitwear collections are designed in Bristol and produced in close cooperation with the team at their factory in Manchester. Peregrine only uses natural fibres, thereby focusing on the performance qualities of nature: their pullovers are made from high-quality, heat-regulating merino wool and the quintessentially British outdoor jackets made of cotton are weatherproof thanks to a wax coating – yet still remain absolutely breathable. For the upcoming collection, Peregrine has breathed new life into English fashion classics with colour-blocking and patchwork. The result is contemporary essentials for modern English gentlemen who don’t want to choose between the city and the countryside.
Studio Elsien Gringhuis
Easy to Wear – Everywhere
The designs by Dutch studio Elsien Gringhuis combine functionality and beautiful design. Their new collection has layering looks and thermal vests ready for when the temperatures start to drop. Sporty-chic silhouettes like oversized sweaters and modern trench coats are giving the looks a modern twist. Powerful red tones, yellow highlights and a dark ink blue exude charisma and appeal. One new addition is a white shirt fabric made of cotton, which is insensitive to stains and perspiration thanks to the special spinning of the yarns, the type of weave and a sustainable finish. Even red wine doesn’t leave any stains on it. Less washing, less water consumption. So beautiful, so sustainable.
Jan ’n June
Two women from Hamburg, two glasses of wine, one idea. That’s pretty much what the birthing hour of label Jan ’n June looked like, which Anna Bronowski and Juliana Holtzheimer established in 2014 with the help of crowdfunding. In addition to certified organic cotton, the designers use Tencel and recycled fabrics – such as polyamide made of ocean waste from so-called ‘ghost nets’, commercial fishing nets that have been lost, abandoned or discarded at sea. The label produces fairly in a family-run sewing factory in Poland. A particular hallmark of Jan ’n June are the hangtags with QR codes, which customers can scan to receive information about materials, certifications and the origin of the products. In addition to the AW19/20 ladies’ collection, the designers will also be debuting their line for men at Neonyt. Their minimalistic casualwear in muted colours like navy and grey is made of comfortable sweat and jersey fabrics. A key piece from the new line is the casual shirt made of marine-blue cord with a slight shine.
Neonyt, the global hub for fashion, sustainability and innovation (from 15-17 January 2019), is made up of the Neonyt Trade Fair, the conferences Fashionsustain by Messe Frankfurt and #Fashiontech by Premium Group as well as the design-thinking format Thinkathon, the Neonyt Fashion Show, showcases, the influencer and blogger event Prepeek, networking events and last but not least, the Neonyt Party. The hub is taking over from the former trade fair duo Ethical Fashion Show Berlin and Greenshowroom. The organiser of Neonyt is Messe Frankfurt, which, hosting around 50 textile fairs in Europe, Asia, Africa and America, is the global market leader for textile industry trade fairs.
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BACKGROUND INFORMATION ON MESSE FRANKFURT:
Messe Frankfurt is the world’s largest trade fair, congress and event organiser with its own exhibition grounds. With more than 2,400 employees at 30 locations, the company generates annual sales of around €669 million. Thanks to its far-reaching ties with the relevant sectors and to its international sales network, the Group looks after the business interests of its customers effectively. A comprehensive range of services – both onsite and online – ensures that customers worldwide enjoy consistently high quality and flexibility when planning, organising and running their events. The wide range of services includes renting exhibition grounds, trade fair construction and marketing, personnel and food services. With its headquarters in Frankfurt am Main, the company is owned by the City of Frankfurt (60 percent) and the State of Hesse (40 percent). For more information:
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- A Symbiosis of Contrasts (pdf, 6 MB)