AVANTEX Paris is the trade fair dedicated to innovative solutions and products for fashion, representing a fusion of fashion and new technologies.. On the occasion of the 4th show, AVANTEX Paris welcomes a variety of exhibitors, which clearly attest to this growing interest shared by two of the most pioneering sectors of industry.
"In September 2015, we created AVANTEX Paris for industry players who wanted to create and design fashion products and collections incorporating high-technology. To us here at Messe Frankfurt France, it has always been clear that we could grow this trade fair around the twin concepts of strategic planning aimed at markets and a professional platform aimed at business. Today, innovative fashion is not solely focussed on fashion and accessories. It is a domain that cuts across areas and involves many disciplines, and expertise in other fields is needed to be effective and deliver performance. This new face of fashion industries as a whole is reflected in the product ranges shown by exhibitors at AVANTEX Paris. This February's 2017 show will be marked by the introduction of a new method of categorising the professional sectors that has been devised in conjunction with our consultants at the NellyRodi agency. One advantage of this unlocking of potential: the partnership set up between AVANTEX Paris, Techtera, the competitiveness cluster for textiles and flexible materials in Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes and 2G2L Paris, the design and trends agency that steers the artistic direction taken by the show”, explains Michael Scherpe, President of Messe Frankfurt France.
A platform for skills and expertise with strong business potential
On the occasion of its 4th show, Avantex Paris is reinforcing its focus on markets and allows professionals from the world of fashion and new technologies to meet up in an ideal setting and together create innovative products. This policy of trading ideas and of jointly identifying the right paths to take in designing tomorrow’s fashion is based on the predecessor show to AVANTEX Paris.
The committee of experts, under the guidance of Michael Scherpe, President of Messe Frankfurt France, was set up with this outlook in mind. Its main objective is to define strategic guidelines for the show, to advise management on fundamental actions to take and the primary players to meet in order to best implement strategies aimed at markets.
Some twenty experts from the fashion and innovation sectors, under the chair of Michael Scherpe, make up this forward-looking and focussed working group:
- Catherine Abonnenc, Vice-President for communications at Femme Business
- Marie-Armelle de Bouteiller, Managing Director at Messe Frankfurt France
- Alain Claudot, Director of Eco Tlc
- Pascal Denizart, Director of CETI
- Corinne Farace, Managing Director, Techtera
- Olivier Lapidus, fashion designer
- Jean-François Limantour, President of Evalliance
- Nelly Rodi, founder of the NellyRodi agency
- Friedrich Weninger, director of Dornbirn Mfc
- Gilles Muller and Frédéric Pellerin, directors at re-active RP
The committee, which met for the first time on 15 December 2016, launched three avenues of research relating to machinery, breakthroughs in materials and the possibility of working more closely with other trade fairs in Messe Frankfurt’s sphere.
Four sectors identified to provide a 360° panorama of technical fashion
In 2016 Avantex Paris requested the NellyRodi agency to set out strategic recommendations and to act as its consultant in its development plans. This assistance led to four sectors being identified to offer a 360° panorama of innovative fashion. The categories according to professional sectors established for AVANTEX Paris cover every single aspect of the fashion industry in all its different branches: from the fibre to the end product, from the original concept to retail, and not forgetting recycling of products at the end of their useful life. New categories to cover each sector, taking one exhibitor attending in February 2017 as an illustration:
- MATERIALS & COMPONENTS groups all the components, fibres, functional textiles etc. One of the exhibitors, for example, is Techtera, the competitiveness cluster for textile and flexible materials in Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes. Techtera is a cluster dedicated to innovation in textiles and flexible materials, created in 2005 and intended to boost the competitiveness of businesses through collaborative innovation and to support them in finding new markets and in developing innovative products. It counts 119 members. The cluster also initiates and supports R&D projects, accompanies businesses in the market launch of their innovative products and in their growth on an international scale. The main challenge facing the 119 members of Techtera is in boosting innovation in flexible materials, using two key technologies: assembly techniques (of complex materials that meet market demands for lighter weights, an aesthetic appearance and new functionalities) and smart textiles (textiles integrating technology that makes them intelligent, such as sensors, energy storage devices and NICT). Delivering excellence in luxury goods and clothing is part of Techtera’s remit, alongside infrastructure renewal, occupational safety, reducing weight in transport and comfort through personal care. This diversity of segments clearly illustrates the increase in expertise that innovative fashion presupposes and allows. The Techtera space at AVANTEX Paris hosts 11 firms. (stand A228) www.techtera.org
- PROTOTYPE STUDIO presents services and technologies dedicated to the design and development processes in a project. To take one exhibitor as an example, we take Euveka, which has created a simple and universal tool, the EVK BODY – XTENT robotic mannequin. One observation that gave rise to this new product: in order to make prototyping easier, the pattern cutter’s essential technical skills need innovative tools that take the vagaries of the material and handling into account. Through transfer of data, it is possible to adapt the mannequin to the size of the garment and to a person’s body shape. Integrated sensors alert the pattern cutter to any assembly errors, pressure in the fabric, the temperature, etc. (stand A212) euveka.com.
- CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES offer finished products, clothing and fashion accessories that incorporate technology: a cap with built-in headphones, a heat-generating jacket, etc. From among the exhibitors, we single out Wolford, which is presenting new underwear and hosiery that are entirely biodegradable and lingerie components in biological plastic. A development that is logical for Wolford, which was founded in Bregenz in Austria in 1950, on the banks of Lake Constance, a listed area for water conservation. The company has always pursued a production policy of complying with high standards for environmental protection and conservation and of using resources efficiently. The new biodegradable products were the subject of three years' extensive research with yarn manufacturers and represent a major step for the textile industry as a whole. The goal is to encourage the C2C approach (cradle-to-cradle) in the hosiery market and to create added value from a biological and technical aspect. (stand C223) www.wolfordshop.fr
- SMART RETAIL groups interactive systems aimed at shops or selling: cross-channel tools, augmented reality and 3D, marketing 2.0 solutions, etc. From among the exhibitors let’s take Tô & Guy as an example: a clothing designer that employs the very latest methods for all the technical elements (taking measurements, grading, printing and new methods of selling). The collections can be visualised thanks to a virtual reality headset These new processes allow them to work using just-in-time production and to make pieces that are practically custom-made. The potential of 3D is clearly demonstrated in the customer/designer experience, the former can bring their favourite garments and the latter do not need to produce all the prototyped silhouettes. It should be noted that this 3D visualisation also makes it possible to change patterns and colours in order to create an ultra-customised garment. (stand C224) toandguy.paris
Apart from the above-mentioned companies, we would also mention the return of Green Defence from Taiwan, which is showing anti-bacterial bio-textiles (stand A223), Coloreel with its concept for embroidery using instantaneous dyeing (stand C214) and the arrival of CETI, the European Centre for Innovative Textiles (stand C214).
Under the auspices of the Parisian organisation La Fashiontech, which promotes ecosystems in fashion and technology from the aspect of sustainable development, nine start-ups will be attending (stand D218): the Duoo brand that supplies men’s underwear offering protection from electromagnetic radiation from mobiles, leather accessories using on-board technology from De Rigueur and Neophoria, digital pattern-making solutions from Morph, online shopping from ShopizFun, Studiotech, consultants and prototyping studio, the collaborative workspace Hall Couture, the anti-pollution scarf Wair and the mobile application MySpeez.
Avantex Paris partnerships: design and technology
Fashion and new technologies are governed by seemingly different approaches, especially when it comes to the workflow of design/creation, but nonetheless they now need each other. In order for projects to come to fruition, professionals must rethink the way they work: fashion needs to move towards products that are more high tech and high tech needs to better understand the manufacturing processes in fashion. It goes without saying that we should never forget the consumers of fashion! With this in mind, AVANTEX Paris has forged a partnership with Techtera for the 4th show and is pursuing its work with the French federation for bespoke couture in Paris (Fédération Française de Création Couture Sur-mesure).
Techtera (stand A228)
Techtera brings together businesses (large groups, mid-market enterprises, small and mid-sized enterprises and micro enterprises taken all together) that offer a huge array of technical textiles but that have not yet developed their own applications for the ready-to-wear and accessories markets.
A partnership, between Techtera, Avantex Paris and 2G2L, presented at the Avantex Paris forum, illustrates how fabrics with their origin in an industrial heritage and French innovation (mostly in use outside the clothing industry) can be exploited in cutting-edge ready-to-wear. A collection designed and realised by Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud (artistic directors at Avantex Paris and designers at 2G2L, a trend and design agency) highlights the characteristics of materials and technical and technological innovations thanks to a very relevant, avant-garde design.
11 companies have entrusted their best-selling technical textiles to the expert skills of Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud. The diversity and profusion of these materials have inspired the two fashion designers: a visionary, futuristic collection, where the technical properties of the materials reflect consumer requirements, with 12 outfits and 17 silhouettes to view as an insight into the future of ready-to-wear (see attachment).
This collection consists of a line of streetwear, aiming for protection and comfort. Minimum imagery where technical achievement goes hand-in-hand with dress-making artistry. The technical skills are used to the benefit of elegance, which itself is in harmony with the man-made aspect as it has been freed from conventional constraints. A very specific concept of garment engineering, this collection will also be shown at Techtextil, the international trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens, from 9 to 12 May 2017 in Frankfurt, which will be attended by Techtera.
C’Couture (stand D224)
This collaboration, launched in September 2016, continues: the French federation for bespoke couture in Paris is continuing its research into tailoring using innovative materials along with techniques from haute couture and is presenting its Habits de Lumière (Garments of Light) collection, which was created using fabrics from exhibitors at Avantex Paris, to be found both at a stand and in the two catwalk shows.
Pierre Letz, President of the French federation for bespoke couture in Paris, will be speaking to us about the second collaboration with Avantex exhibitors:
“Members of our federation used the technical materials from Avantex exhibitors to create this collection of outfits. These materials were generally easy to work with, although their finish or properties sometimes require a special approach in creating the patterns. Reflective materials required that we add elements to enhance their synthetic aspect (LEDs, luminous piping, metallic embroidery, cuffs, floral trims etc.). These materials – often used in sportswear – require creativity that adapts to their texture or moving away from their original function, that means finishing or looking at the drape. They lend something new to the design process, forcing designers to think about how to use them and, departing from familiar elements in men's and women's clothing, bringing new life to the wardrobe with their technical features or their innovative characteristic (wearing comfort in hot or cold weather, moisturising, reflecting, different luminous properties, e-textiles etc.).
The 20 looks that make up Habits de Lumière combine luxury craftsmanship and the one-off item with the creative force invested by haute couture techniques and the excellence and innovation of the 21st century. Each studio belonging to the C’Couture-Paris label is presenting a Habit de Lumière, finished with encrustation, LED appliqués, laser cutouts, embroidery and digital printing etc. These extensive skills originate in techniques from fine craftsmanship.
Focus: colleges of fashion
AVANTEX Paris focuses on fashion for the future with four European schools who have been invited to present their take on the future of the clothing and textile industries.
- Hochschule Niederrhein (stand B217) is a university of applied sciences formed by the merging of several vocational colleges. The University has 10 faculties: chemistry, design, electronics and IT, mechanical and process engineering, nutritional science and economics, social work, textile and clothing technology, economics, industrial engineering healthcare. Hochschule Niederrhein has the largest textile faculty in Europe with 2054 students, 30 professors, 25 contract lecturers and over 30 staff. In particular, the faculty includes the institute for textile and clothing research (very active in studies into textile technology) and the centre for public testing for textile variety (for all trials and surveys on a national scale into personal protective equipment (PPE), medical textile products and industrial textiles). Students at Hochschule Niederrhein will be presenting 14 outfits, very focussed on the links that can be created between nature, tradition, heritage and climate change, innovation, connectivity, man-made, photovoltaics, etc.
- University of Southampton (stand C218) is a British university that enjoys an especially high reputation for its excellent standard of research. At the show, the Department of Electronics and Computer Science is presenting the results of its work on intelligent interactive textiles, in particular electronic functionalities that are printed directly on the textiles.
#FTExpo award: Twinsparis (stand C217)
Messe Frankfurt France and Avantex Paris partnered with the 4th FashionTech Expo last October and rewarded one stand with the people's choice award: the Shapeshifter project from TwinParis (Lou-Anne and Nancy Boehm). Shapeshifter arose from a reflection on the theme of the hybrid body: a shape-shifting garment, designed in an approach of responsible ready-to-wear, it considers the challenges of its age. Based on the principle, according to which constant shape-shifting would allow garments to last, it suggests new forms of design and of transforming material, linked with interchangeable items. The result is a unique, transformable garment that is able to react and to transform itself according to its environment, bringing into play techniques that blend tradition and innovation.
Programme of special events
The catwalk shows and round tables showcase and promote dialogue on all the existing and emerging aspects of the fashion and high tech formula:
Fashion shows, Catwalk space Hall 4
Techtera > Monday, 6th February at 14.30 and Thursday 9th February at 12.00
The 17 looks designed by Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud, realised using textiles from Techtera members
Avantex on Stage > Monday, 6th February at 16.30 and Wednesday, 8th February at 15.30
Designs from To & Guy, the designer Lou-Ann Boehm, Wolford and fashion schools
Habits de Lumière par C’Couture > Tuesday, 7th February at 15.00 and Wednesday, 8th February at 15.00
20 outfits from couturiers made in partnership with the exhibitors at AVANTEX Paris
Round tables, Avantex agora, Hall 2
Monday, 6th February at 11.00, Materials and Components “How intelligent fabrics are changing fashion by providing new functionalities”
Tuesday, 7th February at 15.00, Smart Retail “How to boost innovation with e-commerce”
Wednesday, 8th February at 9.45, “What financing is available for start-ups”
Wednesday, 8th February at 11.25, Clothing & Accessories
“What are the latest innovations in manufacturing processes?”
Thursday, 9th February at 11.00, Prototype Studio “How new technologies are transforming work in design studios”
Thursday, 9th February at 14.00 “The circular economy, a lever for innovation in fashion”
Thursday, 9th February at 15.00 “A revolutionary dyeing method for the textile industry. Live demo!”
Fashion + high technology = AVANTEX Paris !
Learn all about AVANTEX Paris: www.avantex-paris.com
Providing maximum convenience for visitors, AVANTEX Paris belongs to the group of related trade shows organised by Messe Frankfurt France, held in one and the same location, on the same dates and where entry is free upon presentation of professional credentials: Apparel Sourcing Paris, Shawls & Scarves - the accessories showcase, Texworld Paris
All details about textile trade shows organised by Messe Frankfurt throughout the world can be found at www.texpertise-network.com
Background information on Messe Frankfurt
Messe Frankfurt is one of the world’s leading trade fair organisers, generating around €640* million in sales and employing 2,364* people. The Messe Frankfurt Group has a global network of 30 subsidiaries and 55 international Sales Partners, allowing it to serve its customers on location in 175 countries. Messe Frankfurt events take place at approx. 50 locations around the globe. In 2016, a total of 138* trade fairs were held under the Messe Frankfurt umbrella, of which more than half took place outside Germany. Comprising an area of 592,127 square metres, Messe Frankfurt’s exhibition grounds are home to ten exhibition halls. The company also operates two congress centres. The historic Festhalle, one of the most popular venues in Germany, plays host to events of all kinds. Messe Frankfurt is publicly owned, with the City of Frankfurt holding 60 percent and the State of Hesse 40 percent.
For more information, please visit our website at www.messefrankfurt.com.
*Preliminary figures for 2016
Messe Frankfurt France > Mathilde Vander-Elstrate – +33 1 55 26 61 39 firstname.lastname@example.org